How To Grow Roses - Rose Growing Tips

How To Grow Roses - Rose Growing Tips

Rose is a woody perennial flowering plant. It comes from the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae. There are over three hundred species and thousands of cultivars of Roses are available around the globe. 

Rose come form a group of perennial plants that can grow as  shrubs, climbing, or trailing, small bush miniature with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. 

Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds as due to scientific advancement now a days we have many bi colour Rose varieties available for growing. 

Most of the Rose species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are for fragrant. 

Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature Roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden Roses.

Roses are best known as ornamental plants grown for their flowers in the garden and sometimes indoors. 

In the commercial horticultural field Rose have been also used for large scale commercial perfumery and commercial cut flower crops. Roses are used as landscape plants, for hedging and for other utilitarian purposes such as game cover and slope stabilization.

How To Grow Roses

Rose shrubs come in a variety of forms, from miniature to climbing. They are grown for their attractive and often fragrant flowers, which bloom mainly in early summer and fall..

One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:

• The Roses introduced prior to 1867 are classified as old Roses. These are the lush, invariably fragrant Roses found in old  paintings. There are hundreds of old Rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and cold climates.

• The new generation hybrid Roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.

• Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild Roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.

How to Propagate  Roses 

Roses can easily be propagated from mother plant cuttings, Mother plant cuttings can easily develop new root system using a proper root hormone, or other media, now a days home gardener using potato as planting media for Rose plant cuttings.

The mortality rates of  Rose cuttings are less compared to other plants. 

Choosing Planting Position 

Plant Roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t  over crowd them.

Roses do have serious problem with consistent water logging, so try to plant your Roses in rise bed or a slope with well drainage.

Preparing the Soil

Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).

An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.

Before you plant, be sure that you choose Rose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt,  check with your local nursery.

Planting Tips

• Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root Rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.

• Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large Rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.

• When you transplant your Roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.

Watering Roses

• Diligently water your Roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.

• Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.

• Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your Roses as natural mulching. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.

Feeding Roses

• Feed Roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle.

• Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer NPK (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow 3/4 to 1 cup for each mature bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem.

• In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.

Pruning Roses

• Prune Roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.

• Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.

• Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the Rose bushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.

Winterizing Roses

• Do not prune Roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.

• Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.

• Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.

• Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.

• Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.

Pests and diseases

Wild Roses are host plants for a number of pests and diseases. Many of these affect other plants, including other genera of the Rosaceae.

Cultivated Roses are often subject to severe damage from insect, arachnid and fungal pests and diseases. In many cases they cannot be usefully grown without regular treatment to control these problems.

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